In the heart of Montreal, I open the door of the restaurant at the Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ) with a certain sense of curiosity. Inside the large, light-filled veranda, a subtle soundtrack accompanies the precise ballet of students in the dining room during training service days. Through the glass walls, passersby slow down, intrigued by this emblematic venue of Montreal’s culinary scene.
The ITHQ, a true institution, has spent decades training the next generation of Quebec’s culinary talent. Many chefs who have passed through its kitchens are now spread across the globe. The influence of French chef Jean-Paul Grappe, known for his work on Quebec’s terroir, still resonates here, through a cuisine that is rigorous, product-driven, yet open to interpretation.
I take my seat and opt for the $94 tasting menu, a promise of a five-course journey (with an optional $4 cheese supplement). There is also a table d’hôte menu available for $64.
My experience at the ITHQ restaurant
From the amuse-bouche, a chicken liver mousse arrives, paired with cranberries on a small blini. The texture proves slightly dry, and the cranberry, too subtle, struggles to balance the dish.
The foie gras mousse follows, served with onion confit and a boreal berry jelly, topped with caramelized pecans. The flavor is bold and true to the ingredient, but the harmony falters; the jelly is overly dominant, bringing excessive sweetness, while the limited amount of bread restricts the overall texture. As a foie gras enthusiast, I find myself divided.
Next comes a snow crab bisque. Here, I discover real depth, a powerful briny flavor, enhanced by a generously cut vegetable macedoine. The shredded crab adds pleasant texture, though the chorizo, nearly imperceptible, could have contributed an extra layer, almost an umami note, to contrast the bisque.
The main course arrives under a cloche with a theatrical touch, sous-vide braised beef, served with carrot risotto, Brussels sprouts, and a porcini and shiitake mushroom sauce. The meat falls apart beautifully, the risotto is perfectly creamy, and the dish evokes a modern reinterpretation of beef bourguignon with its rich red wine sauce. It’s well executed, comforting, and reminiscent of a refined family-style dish, with excellent control over vegetable cooking.
The pre-dessert, a quince granita with crisp maple meringue, crème brûlée, and caramelized quince, plays skillfully with contrasting textures. The freshness is refreshing and well-timed.
Finally, the dessert surprises. On one side, a small cream biscuit with maple syrup; on the other, a parsnip ice cream resting on a pear biscuit. A hint of IPA beer lingers throughout the tasting, bringing depth and a marked bitterness that cuts through the sweetness. The parsnip reveals itself subtly at the finish. The combination is bold, almost disorienting, yet surprisingly successful. It is a creative and memorable dessert.
