© Lord Eurel In the heart of the Mile-End, Mohamed Ould Atigh, the founder of La Khaïma, chose to pitch his tent (the literal translation of the restaurant’s name in Arabic). Originally from Mauritania, he embodies the spirit of the nomadic Berbers, those desert travelers who move with the rhythm of the wind and sand. The moment you step inside, Montréal fades away: colorful tapestries hang from the ceiling, soft banquettes line the walls, and low tables (a bit too low for my taste) recreate the warm, communal atmosphere of a Saharan camp.
At La Khaïma, there’s no complicated menu; the meal is a shared experience. A soup to start, a generous couscous option available in both meat and vegetarian versions, and a mint tea to finish (all for $ 30 CAD). A simple formula, but more than enough when the warmth, flavors, and conviviality more than make up for the lack of choice.
The lentil soup arrives first, rich and comforting, the perfect prelude to the meal. It evokes the cozy warmth of a Mauritanian campfire as much as the comfort one seeks after braving Montréal’s winter chill. Then comes the main event: a hearty couscous platter, served that evening in three variations: chicken with olives and preserved lemon; beef with raisins and dates; and slow-cooked vegetables. The balance of sweet and savory is beautifully handled: the halal meat is tender and flavorful, while the spices (cinnamon, cumin, coriander) recall the intoxicating aromas of North African cuisine.
If there’s one small misstep, it’s the modest amount of semolina and the decorative grated carrots, which feel a bit unnecessary and slightly disrupt the harmony of the dish.
The mint tea, poured theatrically from a remarkable height to aerate it, brings the experience to a graceful close. Its fragrant foam softens the end of the feast and gently ushers you back to the cold outside, as if, upon leaving the tent, you were stepping once more into the quiet night of the Mauritanian desert.
