On Mont-Royal Avenue East, in the heart of the Plateau, a Ramen Isshin counter has been serving up one of Montreal’s most sought-after bowls of ramen since May 2022. The spot is the Montreal branch of a small Canadian chain born in Toronto, which today has locations in Toronto, in Ottawa, and in Chinatown since July 2026, where I went.
The word “Isshin” comes from Japanese and brings together three ideas dear to the house: a total dedication in the preparation of every bowl, the idea that every service is a unique encounter, and uncompromising commitment. A philosophy that fits executive chef and co-owner Koji Zenimaru well. Originally from Osaka, he cut his teeth in Japanese cooking at a young age before heading to Vancouver to try his luck, where he learned the ropes of izakaya cooking. His path then led him to Toronto, where he helped open Kingyo izakaya before founding, in 2013, the very first Ramen Isshin with two partners. Miso remains his signature. Every bowl starts cooking in the wok, where vegetables, a blend of red and white miso, and sake are seared before the tonkotsu broth is added.
Ramen Isshin relies on a compact space of about thirty seats, in a counter style closer to fast-casual than a traditional restaurant. In some locations, you order by QR code or from a ticket handed to you on arrival, and the service, fast and professional, is clearly designed for a lunch that doesn’t linger rather than a dinner that stretches on.
The menu revolves around two pillars: miso and tonkotsu, offered in about fifteen bowls including several vegetarian versions (adaptable to vegan). The highlight of the menu remains the Red Dragon, a bolder version of the spicy red miso, whose house chili sauce combines fifteen different spices, also served with a whole marinated egg and thick, twisted noodles. Ramen prices range from about $19 to $23. For starters, you’ll find the fried pork gyoza ($7.50 for five pieces), served with a house umami sauce, and takoyaki ($8.50 for five pieces), fried octopus balls topped with takoyaki sauce, Kewpie mayo, and dried bonito flakes among other typical starters.
My Experience at Ramen Isshin
I started my meal on familiar ground: the pork gyoza. Crispy as expected, the golden shell cracks under the tooth, but that only betrays its industrial origin. Nothing that stands out from the crowd. The kind of starter I order out of habit.
The takoyaki, on the other hand, were much better. Under a lightly crispy shell, the inside melts literally in the mouth, giving the octopus filling all the room to shine. The sauce, lightly sweet, coats every bite without overwhelming it, and the real show happens with the dried bonito flakes, lifted by the heat, rippling like a swarm of butterflies above the balls. A classic, certainly, though it’s missing that firm piece of octopus inside, the element of surprise I usually appreciate in this dish.
Then came the Red Dragon red miso bowl, the spicy version of the Spicy Red Miso. From the first sip, the depth of the broth impresses. A dense, generous umami that doesn’t try to hide behind the heat. The one drawback, in my view: the noodles, once again, betray an industrial production, floating in the broth without the distinctive texture you’d hope for in a signature bowl. I especially appreciated the generous portion of noodles and of the dish overall, even if I would have liked a bit more protein to balance it out. As for the heat, the Red Dragon’s chili paste tested my limits. Not unbearable for tougher palates, but for me it clearly approaches the threshold beyond which pleasure gives way to ordeal.
