Live in Paris: Dive into the Heart of the City of Light

With just a simple laundry bag, I landed to live in Paris over 10 years ago. Coming from Alsace, I managed to embrace the capital of France. Whether during my student years when I searched for happy hours at student bars and small restaurants offering a daily menu, or as a regular host on Couchsurfing, I lost myself through centuries of history, art, and gastronomy. And in the end, dine at the gourmet tables of Parisian palaces. In this article, which I want to be very personal, I invite you to explore the many facets of this fascinating metropolis, from its hidden treasures to its iconic landmarks, along with the local traditions that make the city’s heart and your taste buds beat.

Living in Paris Through History and Culture

I often begin my journey through the streets of Paris at the famous Luxembourg Gardens. Founded by Marie de Médicis, queen alongside Henry IV, and hailing from the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in Italy, it magnificently adopts the principles of a French formal garden. A baroque, symmetrical garden with well-trimmed trees and water features, where regular sculptures do not disrupt the vegetation. Quite the opposite of English gardens, whose charm lies in asymmetry and picturesque paths. At the center of the park resides the Senate building, which serves as the second line of defense in integrating new laws in the Fifth French Republic.

Walking leisurely eastward, you will come across the Pantheon, whose inscription “Aux grands hommes, la Patrie reconnaissance” (“To great men, the grateful homeland”) declares the solemn nature of the monument. Formerly the Church of Saint Genevieve, it has also been the eternal resting place of the great men of the nation since the death of Mirabeau after the French Revolution. It houses the remains of Napoleon’s generals, as well as Voltaire, Rousseau, Braille, Dumas, Curie, and many more. It is truly a history lesson.

The next stop on our journey takes us through the Latin Quarter and its prestigious schools, such as the Sorbonne, where Marie Curie studied at a time when very few women attended university. The winding streets eventually lead us to Île de la Cité, the cradle of medieval Paris. Here stands the sorrowful Notre-Dame de Paris—still under reconstruction due to the fire that destroyed its roof—whose dazzling stained glass windows and majestic towers remind us that hope can be reborn even amidst ruins. The island is also home to my favorite monument, Sainte-Chapelle. Founded by Louis IX, also known as Saint Louis, to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, its stained glass windows depicting biblical scenes also showcase the beginnings of a new architectural style: Gothic. Adjacent to the Palace of Justice, Saint Louis intended to show that power was “divine right,” meaning that justice was rendered by God.

Exiting the island and walking along the banks of the Seine, you begin to catch glimpses of the Louvre Museum. Once a royal palace and also a residence of Napoleon Bonaparte, it has been expanded and transformed over more than 1,000 years. The latest addition was the glass pyramids in its center, completed around 1989. Today, it is one of the most famous museums in the world, housing, among other masterpieces, the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. However, it would be limited to reduce it to just these two works. There is a secret entrance accessible via the underground shopping mall to avoid the long lines.

Facing the Louvre, you can gently stroll through the Tuileries Gardens and observe another French formal garden by Marie de Médicis, beautifully integrating the Seine and the Eiffel Tower on the left. After a good thirty minutes and having crossed the crowd of tourists visiting the Champs-Élysées to indulge in the luxury of French fashion, the Arc de Triomphe will emerge, a symbol of France’s power. Built to celebrate the heroic victories of Napoleon’s army, it also pays tribute to the soldiers of World War I with the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Only the coffins of Victor Hugo and Napoleon Bonaparte have been honored to pass under the arch.

To conclude the visit, I often head to the Eiffel Tower via the Trocadéro esplanade. Designed by engineer Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 World’s Fair, this bold structure quickly became the emblem of the French capital. It was saved from demolition thanks to its radio antenna at the top. The tower sparkles with thousands of lights every hour on the hour, a magical sight that will make you dream of living in Paris.

Of course, it’s impossible to cover all the monuments that have shaped Paris’s history one by one, such as the palaces from the World’s Fairs, Sainte-Sulpice Church, the Opera Garnier, the Musée d’Orsay, the Sacré-Cœur in the heart of the bohemian Montmartre district, and Les Invalides housing Napoleon’s tomb. Paris is truly a city rich in history and architectural marvels.

Living in Paris and Its Hidden Treasures

Paris is a city divided into no fewer than 20 arrondissements, each offering its own comfort and dynamism. The lesser-known corners of the French capital are sometimes found in its small, authentic neighborhoods, some of which are particularly famous.

The Canal Saint-Martin

The Canal Saint-Martin district, located between the 10th and 11th arrondissements, is a true haven of peace in the heart of Paris. Its tree-lined banks and picturesque locks attract strollers and cyclists who come to enjoy the tranquility of the area. The neighborhood is also renowned for its trendy cafes, bistronomic restaurants, and eclectic boutiques. Residents particularly appreciate the relaxed atmosphere and lively neighborhood life, away from the hustle and bustle of the city center.

Le Marais

Le Marais, spanning the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, is a historic district that blends elegance with cultural diversity. Its cobblestone streets, private mansions, and designer boutiques make it a highly sought-after area for Parisians and visitors alike. The Marais is home to numerous museums, including the Picasso Museum and the Carnavalet Museum, as well as contemporary art galleries. The neighborhood is also a vibrant center of the LGBTQ+ community, offering a dynamic and inclusive social scene. Additionally, it’s known as the Jewish quarter of Paris where you can enjoy some of the best falafels in the city.

Montmartre

Perched on a hill in the 18th arrondissement, Montmartre is a legendary neighborhood that has long been a haven for artists. Its cobblestone streets, vineyards, and picturesque houses offer a unique old-world charm in Paris. The Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur, with its stunning view over the city, is an iconic landmark. But Montmartre is more than just its tourist spots: it’s also a lively neighborhood, with traditional bistros, small shops, and a village-like atmosphere. Residents particularly appreciate the tranquility of its streets and the richness of its cultural heritage.

Other neighborhoods certainly deserve to be mentioned, such as the 13th arrondissement with its large Asian community making it the Chinatown of Paris, Île Saint-Louis for its village atmosphere, and the Latin Quarter with its renowned universities.

Living in Paris to the Rhythm of Gastronomy

Living in Paris also means living to the rhythm of the French and the famous “metro, work, sleep” routine that can feel oppressive in the capital. It’s about the Sunday market for buying seasonal vegetables, fresh fish, cheese, and various French terrines. You can find a market in almost every village and every arrondissement, with only the days varying. One of the most authentic is Marché Maubert, where you’ll find a baker proudly selling the best croissant in Paris. Don’t hesitate to visit Marché Edgar-Quinet on Boulevard Edgar-Quinet as well. Nearby, you can even take a photo at La Closerie des Lilas, a less touristy equivalent of Café de Flore, where you can enjoy a coffee on the terrace while watching people stroll by on the street.

Fortunately, Paris offers more than just cafes and croissants that you can enjoy anytime. French cuisine, in my opinion, can be divided into two categories. Firstly, there’s a traditional cuisine, including regional dishes like Breton galettes, pissaladière from Nice, Lyon’s bouchons, Burgundy snails, and Alsatian tarte flambée. Secondly, there’s gastronomic cuisine, which delights the palate with advanced cutting techniques and flavor combinations, whether using luxurious ingredients or not.

Bistros in Paris

To start with regional cuisine at a reasonable price, there’s nothing better than enjoying a galette in a Breton atmosphere accompanied by a glass of cider at La Crêperie de Josselin. I also recommend sharing a good meal at Papy aux Fourneaux, where the menu changes frequently with ample local ingredients. For a more traditional French experience to discover escargots and dishes reminiscent of our grandparents, I suggest L’Escargot Montorgueil, which offers a variety of sauces for enjoying escargots—though nothing beats the classic bourguignon style. My final recommendation is a bit beyond the bistro budget but is the best traditional Lyonnais restaurant in the capital, Aux Lyonnais, where you can enjoy excellent tripe and other offal dishes.

I must also mention Bouillon Chartier, which you’ll see recommended everywhere. In my opinion, though, despite its typical and bustling atmosphere, the food is poorly executed, justified by its very low prices.

Luxury restaurants in Paris

Paris also offers a multitude of high-quality Michelin-starred restaurants, making it, along with Tokyo, one of the most starred cities. Apart from Alain Passard’s Arpège, often ranked among the best restaurants in the world for its seasonal vegetable cuisine, I highly recommend Substance by Matthias Marc. A former Top Chef contestant, he has introduced innovative new cuisine in a city full of culinary novelties. Another standout is Mory Sacko at Mosuke, blending both Asian and African influences close to his roots while respecting the traditions of French gastronomy.

And to complete and wrap up the recommendations, we must not forget the restaurants in Parisian palaces such as Le Cinq at the George V, showcasing the finesse of Christian Le Squer.

I obviously can’t cover all the dining spots in Paris, but I hope this small list will satisfy you, at least in part.

My map to live in Paris