As soon as you step inside Restaurant Othym in Montreal, you’re welcomed into a large U-shaped dining room. The exposed ventilation system on the ceiling, typical of Quebec bistros, the central bar (surprising for its absence of alcohol, since the restaurant is BYOW), and the understated greenish décor all give the place an atmosphere that is both raw and inviting. Wooden tables and shelves lined with jars of preserves and cookbooks add a distinctly gourmet touch.

The chalkboard reveals the restaurant’s signature concept: the three-part experience. Each sequence offers four dishes and an interlude, designed as a culinary journey where creativity and Quebec’s local products come together.

First Plates: A Balance of Freshness and Boldness

I begin with the lightly smoked Arctic char. Presented like a refined tataki, it rests on a deeply umami-rich fish sauce. Floral oil adds depth, while pickled turnip brings an acidic touch that perfectly balances the dish. The finesse of the smoke melds beautifully with the brightness of the condiments, a true success in my opinion.

Next comes the corn tartlet, a true play of textures and flavors. Between the silky corn purée, the lightly charred kernels, and the lobster mushroom’s intense taste, each bite surprises. The scallion, dusted with paprika, releases a lovely fragrant note, though its acidity feels slightly absent from the overall harmony. The mix of crunch and creaminess, however, is undeniably captivating.

The Interlude: A Refreshing Pause

Before moving on to the heartier plates, a sea buckthorn sorbet with Menaud gin awakens the palate. Its fruity sharpness, at once tangy and gently bitter, acts as a refreshing pause, preparing the way for the rest of the feast.

The Main Act: Lamb, Reimagined

The menu reaches its peak with the lamb heart and liver, delicately arranged atop a smoked eggplant purée. A chasseur style sauce brings earthy depth, while the aromatic yogurt offers a contrasting freshness. A touch more fleur de sel on the lamb would have elevated it, but the balance between umami, acidity, and sweetness remains beautifully handled.