From the moment we arrive at Restaurant Europea in Montreal, it’s hard to miss the pride on display: the Michelin star reference, a symbol of its recent success. Jérôme Ferrer, a visionary chef and a leading figure in Quebec’s gastronomy, doesn’t hide his emotion at having earned one of the city’s very first Michelin stars. A recognition he shares with a loyal team, nearly 40% of whom have been with him since the beginning.

A carefully staged welcome

We are seated facing the large bay windows, visible from the street, like a touch of voyeurism inviting passersby to discover Jérôme Ferrer’s cuisine. The dining room, classically elegant with an open kitchen and plush armchairs, is marked by a striking detail: a large branch on each table, serving as a display stand for the amuse-bouches. A promising start… that quickly reveals its limits.

The reimagined mac & cheese, served in a raw stone bowl, feels heavy and lacks finesse. The Parmesan churros, while visually appealing, leave only a faint impression. Next comes a pork cromesquis, a foie gras panna cotta that is surprisingly runny, and a tough beef jerky closer to meat chewing gum than a pleasure on the palate. Then, a lively mushroom ravioli floats in a broth, bringing some umami, but it cuts too sharply with the vinegar in the broth. Thankfully, the clam tart, crisp and refreshing, lifts the level with beautiful precision.

The shining starter: Lobster from the Magdalen Islands

With the true courses, the tone changes. The Magdalen Islands lobster, lightly smoked, reveals tender flesh enhanced by notes of lemon and a hint of bitterness (sometimes too pronounced). A balance that makes it one of my favorite dishes of the evening.

The scallop tartare, despite its geometric presentation, convinces less. The freshness is there, but the cocktail sauce is too strong, and the butter (likely unnecessary) masks the natural delicacy of the product.

When gastronomy meets virtual reality

The experience takes an unexpected turn: virtual reality headsets immerse us in an oyster-fishing scene, while a seafood dish arrives as if by magic. The concept is bold: New Brunswick oyster jelly paired with shrimp and crispy salmon. The dish is pleasant, especially the salmon, but the technological mise en scène, meant to evoke the fragility of the ocean floor, could have been better aligned with the plate itself.

Venison with flavors of childhood

The meat course proves more successful: venison paired with a “hunter “chasseur” sauce and foie gras. The strength of the wild meat meets the roundness of a foie gras in a harmony that instantly reminded me of the rustic wild boar dishes my grandmother once prepared. A moment of true culinary sincerity.

A sweet journey through the heart of Quebec

Before dessert, we are invited into the kitchen to meet the team and catch a glimpse of Jérôme Ferrer at work, a welcomed, intimate interlude. Then arrives an avalanche of maple-infused sweets, Quebec’s culinary emblem: crème brûlée, cotton candy, flambéed marshmallows, miniature beaver tails hanging from a clothesline. The idea is playful, the staging brilliant, but the result feels like a sugar bomb.

The final dessert, signed by Roland Del Monte (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), raises the bar: a trompe-l’œil apple, light and elegant, floating in an iced cider sabayon. A beautiful balance of freshness, creaminess, and crunch.

Verdict: an experience more visual than gustatory

Leaving Restaurant Europea, the feeling is mixed. Jérôme Ferrer offers a generous and immersive experience, where staging and visual creativity sometimes overshadow the plate itself. While some dishes shine(like the lobster and the venison), others disappoint with clumsy acidity or excessive heaviness.

You leave satisfied, impressed by the spectacle, but with the impression that the Michelin star rewards the overall experience more than pure culinary refinement.